AquadyneTM - Operational Instructions

Manufacturers Installation Manuals:

 Aquadyne Model .60 and .60B

 Aquadyne Model 1.1 and 1.1B

Aquadyne Model 2.2 and 2.2B 

 Aquadyne Model 4.4C

 Aquadyne Model 8.8C

General Instructions:

The subject of filtration is probably going to be one of the most frustrating decisions you will have to make in building your water garden paradise. It would be so easy to say just go out and buy yourself a good filter and install it, but that would be like saying just any car will get gas mileage, without bothering to tell you how much. Without going into great detail, it is very important to have a biologically correct filter system attached to your pond if you plan to have a fish population. You will first need to ask yourself how much labor are you willing to put into keeping your filter clean. There is a direct relationship between filter cost, and labor required to maintain, that is, within a range of quality filters. It also seems that there is an endless line of filters waiting to go inside your pond for almost anything you want to pay for them. One thing to consider is whether you are looking for a simple mechanical filter to keep the suspended solids out of a small pond with very few fish, or are you seeking to biologically consume the waste products that your fish population will be producing, no matter what size the pond or regardless of how many fish you have. As you will see in the pages that follow you will discover one of the newest and most functional filters available on the market today. Due to the lack of availability of a truly great filter that avoids buyers remorse, we have developed, hold the patent on, and are the only producer of the Aquadyne bead filtration system. We have been so successful with this brain child of mine that we have discontinued representing any other manufacturers filter systems, and maintain a nationwide advertising campaign in 5 major periodical magazines which you will see on most any news stand or bookstore shelf. Aquadyne is truly "the worlds first perfect bead filter system".

Be sure not to miss the Dyna~Max option now available on all of our bead systems.

Backwashing:

Let your filter run for several days before you perform your first backwash. You may leave your pump running when performing backwashing operations. However, if you do leave your pump running, be careful not to allow the control valve to slip into the closed position, as this will likely cause your pump to cavitate and may cause damage to the unit. Also you will likely not be able to move the handle again without turning the pump off. Hayward suggests turning the pump off, but you are free to choose. Before our modifications the filter operated at much higher pressures than we use for fish ponds therefore the pump off or on is not much of an issue, unless your pump is ¾ horsepower or more. Always rotate the top control handle in a direction opposite the closed position when making position changes while the pump is running to avoid the handle accidentally falling into the closed position which could cause a gasket failure due to overpressurizaton.

 

1. The first step to backwashing is to open the bottom drain with the pump running. This will allow any sludge and sediment buildup to discharge from the bottom of the filter. The sludge will come out very quickly, therefore the valve has to be opened only for a few seconds.

2. Second, with the pump off or on, reposition the top control handle to the BACKWASH position. At first you will see only clear water flow out of the waste line, then the dirt and waste will begin to exit the filter. Once the water runs clear, reposition the handle to the RINSE position to reload the media into the top of the tank and allow the water to run again until clear. Finally, reset the control handle to the FILTER position and you are finished.

Special Note: You will probably notice that the discharge from the waste lines will have a very foul odor. This is good, and a sign that your beneficial bacteria are developed and healthy.

Additional Note: If you use a pump that is over ¼ HP or 1200 gph and leave the pump running while changing the control valve position. Always rotate the handle without crossing over the CLOSED position. This will eliminate the possibility of the handle slipping out of your hand into the CLOSED position, which may over-pressurize components and damage the unit.

 

Advanced Backwashing:

Advanced backwashing is completely unnecessary if your filter has the Dyna~max air assist.

If you wish, you can perform an advanced backwash no more often than once per month. If you perform an advanced backwash every two to three months, it is usually not necessary to remove the control valve and diffuser in the spring or fall for an annual unclogging procedure. To perform an advanced backwash you will need to be running at least a 2200 gph pump on the Model .60. Advanced backwashing works exactly the same as a normal backwash with only a couple of exceptions.

1. Turn your pump off.

2. Position the control handle half way between the FILTER and RINSE positions on the control head.

3. Open the bottom sludge drain and allow approximately half of the water in the filter to drain out. Tap on the container to determine the water level. If beads start coming out the sludge valve you are draining too much water.

4. Position the control handle in the BACKWASH position and turn the pump on for a couple of minutes or until the water begins to clear.

5. Once the water begins to clear, change the control handle to the RINSE position untuil the water runs as clear as your pond water. (It will take a minute or two before the rinse water discharges, as the filter has to refill with water.)

6. Reset the control valve to the FILTER position and you are back in business.

This may sound a little complicated at first, but the advanced backwash takes only five or ten minutes to complete, and you never get your hands wet!

Pump Sizing Suggested Recommendations: Low Speeds

____Model .60 / 1200 - 2200 GPH ____Model 2.2 / 2200 - 5000 GPH

____Model 1.1 / 2200 - 3900 GPH ____Model 4.4 / 1/4 HP and up

 

Pump Sizing Suggested Recommendations: High Speeds to Backwash

____Model .60 / 3900 GPH ____Model 2.2 / 5000 GPH

____Model 1.1 / 3900 GPH ____Model 4.4 / 1/4 HP and up

As of the introduction of our latest development known as the Dyna~Max air-assist bead pre-rinse option, you can actually use quite small single or dual speed pumps to backwash the filter systems supporting this option. Even the largest Model 2.2 or 4.4 only require 50 to 60 gallons of water to completely clear the filter of waste or debris.

SEE Dyna~Max

For best performance it is best to use a two speed external pump to power your Aquadyne system. You benefit in a lower power consumption, and also get the electrical cords out ot the water, avoiding electrical complications from a shorted out pump. You will filter on low speed and use the high speed to backwash the system. Our Jacuzzi High effeciency, and William Lim Pumps are ideal single and 2 speed external pumps that use as little as 2.6 amps of power on low. That is as good or better than most any 2200 gph submersable. It is not recommended that you use a smaller pump than is recommended. The diffuser column has been designed for best performance when using the recommended pump sizes. If using an undersized pump, effective backwashing may not be possible unlessyou have opted for the Dyna~Max system. (Standard equipment on Models 4.4 and 8.8)

As a sidebar: Two speed pumps are not a necessity. Single speed pumps are just fine, as long as the recommended backwash volumes are present. If you are considering a model with the Dyna-Max air wash system, two speed pumps are irrelevant. The main reason that we recommend a 2 speed pump is two fold. 1. The customer will have a lower power bill, because 2 speed pumps usually only draw about 3 Amps. and 2. Filter models without the Dyna-Max airwash will need the extra power of the high speed to backwash their filter.

 

Medicating Your Pond:

At times it may be necessary to add medications to your pond that will harm the beneficial bacteria in your biological filter. In this case you will simply position the top control handle to the RECIRC. position. Always perform a BACKWASH cycle before closing off your filter from circulation. This will clear the filter of waste and prevent it from becoming septic. Before returning the filter to normal operation, backwash the filter again for a short time to discharge any septic water that may have formed in the filter while being bypassed. RECIRC. allows the water coming from the pump to bypass the filter completely and recirculate to the pond without passing through the filter media, and thus not killing the biological capacity of your filter. The beneficial bacteria should be able to survive in the closed system for many weeks. When you return your filter to normal operation after an extended period of medicating, the capacity of the filter may be stunted for a short time, but should catch back up with the demand of your pond within a couple of days. Always perform a 50% water change after medicating your pond.

 

Draining Your Pond and Water Changes:

Typically, the backwashing process will discharge enough water over a couple of backwashings to satisfy your water change needs. However, if you need to remove large sums of water from your pond for cleaning or other purposes, simply rotate the control head handle to the WASTE position and the pond water will be drained to waste without passing through the filter as long as the pump or suction line is under water.

 

Winterizing Your Filter:

Many people find is necessary to shut their pumps off in the winter time. If this is the case you will need to winterize your pump and filter system. First, perform a complete backwash cycle and shut your pump off. Then rotate your control head handle halfway between any two positions labeled on the head and leave it. Next, remove the winterizing cap from the bottom of the filter and allow all of the water in the filter to drain out. The beads will not fall out this hole as there is a screen on the inside to prevent this from happening. Draining through the winterizing cap port may take an hour or so. DO NOT fully open the waste drain valve to drain the water because the beads will wash out by the hundreds. ONLY AFTER most all of the water has drained out of the filter will you crack the bottom drain valve just until the last bit of water begins to slowly drain. Leave the valve cracked just a little to prevent any water from freezing in the pipe. Do not be alarmed if on occasion you loose a few beads from the lower waste drain. This is normal as on occasion some beads will be trapped in clumps of waste that will discharge through the drain. You could loose several pounds of beads before you ever affected the filters capacity. Replacement beads are available if you should ever want to top off your filter, but be cautious not to add more than the specified weight for your filter, as the filter has been designed to function properly with a specific quantity of beads.

 

The Dreaded Filter Clog ( That you will likely never experience, especially with the Dyna~Max option.)

This is where we shine. Many bead filters on the market today are designed so that you have very limited access to the media. When many filters clog, you have a clogged filter that may take hours to repair. Not so here!

If you were smart, you installed the union fittings included with your filter into the control head before attaching the rest of your plumbing.

 

To unclog your Aquadyne filter system follow these simple instructions.

1. Turn off your pump.

2. Disconnect your union fittings from the head.

3. Place the control handle between any two positions.

4. Remove the freeze drain cap and allow 3 to 4 gallons of water to drain and replace the cap. Or, if you are careful not to drain more than a few gallons just crack the sludge valve open and the water will drain much faster. If the water level gets too low in the tank, you will start to loose beads through the sludge valve. If this happens just toss them back in.

5. Loosen and remove the neck lock ring.

6. Remove the head and diffuser from the tank, swishing the diffuser up and down

simultaneously to wash the beads off the column.

7. Take your hand or a short board or other object and stir the beads very well, breaking loose any compacted debris that may be clogging the beads.

8. Re-assemble the head, neck clamp, and unions. Place the control handle in the BACKWASH

position and turn the pump on. This will continue to wash any trapped debris in the filter out the waste line. When the BACKWASH waste water runs nearly clear, open the sludge valve and let the sedimented dirt escape. Once all waste water runs clear, close the sludge valve and place the control valve in the RINSE position until the rinse water runs clear. Open the sludge valve once more for a couple of seconds to discharge any remaining debris in the bottom of the tank. Reposition the control valve in the FILTER position and you are done.

 

NOTE: If you do not have a Dyna-Max airwash, it is recommended that you perform this unclogging procedure whether needed or not about once or twice per year in the spring or fall, to assure that your filter is clear of heavy waste products. This is especially important if you are using a low volume pump. If you performing successful Advanced Backwashes this unclogging procedure may not be necessary. If you have the Dyna~Max air assist system, it is likely that your filter system will never have to be opened at all, (unless you are just curious).

Vacation

If you plan to be away from your pond for an extended period of time, there is no need to worry about backwashing your filter while you are away. The filter is designed so that there is littlle resistance to water flow through the media and diffuser column. If you are normally backwashing once per week and not getting an extreme amount of dirt waste from the filter, you can leave you filter running for three to four weeks unattended, depending on the filter size and fish load, but you will want to perform a very good backwash, or possibly an advanced backwash upon returning to assure that the filter is clean.

There is a word of caution: When leaving your filter for long periods of time, be sure to buffer your pond water. The Aquadyne filter together with the decomposition bacteria in your filter are so efficient that a pH shift may occur if your water is not buffered.

Are you ready to STOP the constant washing of messy filter pads and actually spend more time enjoying your pond?

Aquadyne almost allows you to be unconcerned about the quality of your water. Aquadyne is virtually the most maintenance free filtration system on the market. Feel free to take a chance at something that is often mis-represented in advertising world. Aquadyne truly offers a "0" complaint system, with no buyers remorse.